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Free tool · Towing weight

What tongue weight and payload does your trailer need?

Enter your loaded trailer weight, trailer type, and your truck's door-jamb payload, and this tool returns the target tongue-weight range and how much of your payload the load uses. It reports numbers and ranges only. It does not tell you whether your rig is safe to tow, and it is not a substitute for weighing your loaded rig and checking every rating.

Read first: towing weights are a safety matter. This is a free planning estimate using published industry rules of thumb, not a determination that your setup is safe to tow and not engineering advice. It cannot see your specific vehicle, hitch, tires, brakes, or how you loaded the trailer. Your real numbers come from a scale and from the door-jamb sticker and owner's manual for your exact vehicle. Never exceed any single rating, GVWR, GAWR, GCWR, tow rating, hitch rating, or tire rating; the lowest one governs. When in doubt, consult your vehicle or trailer manufacturer or a qualified professional.

Worked example

A 6,000 lb loaded travel trailer has a target tongue weight of 600 to 900 lb (10 to 15 percent). That tongue weight also comes out of the truck's payload: at 750 lb of tongue weight plus 300 lb of passengers and 100 lb of cargo, you have used 1,150 lb of a 1,500 lb payload, leaving 350 lb. Being under the tow rating is not enough; the lowest of your ratings governs, so weigh the loaded rig and check every ceiling.

How it's calculated: tongue-weight band = loaded trailer weight x 10 to 15 percent (conventional) or 15 to 25 percent (fifth-wheel/gooseneck); payload remaining = door-jamb payload minus tongue weight minus passengers minus vehicle cargo.

Your trailer

Your tow vehicle

Optional: check GCWR and tow-rating margins

GCWR and tow rating are in your owner's manual and vary by configuration. Loaded vehicle weight comes from a scale with people and gear aboard.

Numbers and ranges only, using published towing rules of thumb. This is not a determination that your setup is safe to tow. Weigh your loaded rig and confirm every rating against your door-jamb sticker and owner's manual.

How towing weight math works

The calculator above is just this five-step method applied to your numbers. You can run it by hand with the same figures.

Step 1: Start from the LOADED trailer weight

Every number below keys off the trailer's real loaded weight (GTW), not the empty or brochure 'dry' weight. Water, propane, batteries, gear, and cargo can add hundreds to over a thousand pounds. The only honest way to know it is to weigh the loaded trailer on a CAT or public scale. That loaded weight must also stay under both the trailer's own GVWR and your vehicle's tow rating.

Step 2: Target the tongue weight to the trailer type's band

Tongue weight is the downward force the loaded trailer puts on the hitch. For a conventional bumper-pull trailer, aim for 10 to 15 percent of the loaded trailer weight; for a fifth-wheel or gooseneck, the pin weight runs 15 to 25 percent. Too little (below the band) invites trailer sway; too much overloads the hitch and the tow vehicle's rear axle. You adjust it by moving cargo forward of or behind the trailer axle.

Step 3: Subtract the tongue weight from your truck's payload

This is the step people skip, and it is where most rigs go over. Tongue weight is cargo on the tow vehicle, so it comes straight out of the truck's payload, the 'combined weight of occupants and cargo' number on the driver's door-jamb sticker. Payload remaining = door-jamb payload minus tongue weight minus passengers minus everything else in the cab and bed. A weight-distributing hitch spreads that tongue weight across the axles for better handling, but it does not raise your payload; the tongue weight still counts here.

Step 4: Check every ceiling; the lowest rating governs

GVWR (the loaded vehicle), GAWR (each axle), GCWR (vehicle plus trailer combined), the tow rating, the hitch and receiver rating, and the tire load ratings are all independent limits. Being under one does not mean you are under the others, and the lowest one is the one you cannot exceed. Trucks very often run out of payload long before they run out of tow rating.

Step 5: Weigh the real rig, then verify

Load the rig the way you actually tow it and take it to a scale to get the true axle and combined weights. Read your ratings off the door-jamb label and the towing section of your owner's manual, which are specific to your exact configuration. Treat the numbers here as a planning starting point to be confirmed against those, not as a green light.

Typical trailer weights and tongue-weight targets

Planning starting points from industry sources. Fifth-wheel and gooseneck pin weights both fall within the broader 15 to 25 percent band; the split shown is typical practice, not a fixed rule. Your own loaded weight and your vehicle's ratings are what govern, so weigh the rig and read the door-jamb sticker rather than relying on these ranges.

Trailer type Typical loaded weight Tongue / pin weight
Small utility / motorcycle1,000–3,000 lb10–15%
Boat trailer (with boat)2,000–6,000 lb10–15%
Travel trailer (bumper-pull)4,000–8,500 lb10–15%
Large travel trailer8,000–11,000 lb10–15%
Fifth-wheel9,000–16,000 lb15–20% (pin)
Gooseneck (flatbed / stock)7,000–20,000+ lb20–25% (pin)

No gear to sell here, just the numbers

This is a free tool with nothing to upsell. Once your weights check out and you are kitting out the rig, our RV and van gear guides cover the power, comfort, and connectivity side, and the free battery runtime and solar and battery calculators size your electrical setup. For the whole road picture, start at the RV gear guide.

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Common questions

How much tongue weight should a trailer have?

For a conventional bumper-pull trailer, target 10 to 15 percent of the loaded trailer weight on the tongue. For a fifth-wheel or gooseneck, the pin weight target is 15 to 25 percent (fifth-wheels usually land 15 to 20 percent, goosenecks 20 to 25 percent). It is a range, not a single number. Below the band the trailer is prone to sway; above it you overload the hitch and the tow vehicle's rear axle. You change it by shifting cargo forward of or behind the trailer's axle, and the only accurate way to know your real figure is a tongue-weight scale or a CAT scale.

Does tongue weight count against my truck's payload?

Yes, and forgetting this is the most common towing overload. Tongue weight is a load the trailer places on the tow vehicle, so it comes directly out of the truck's payload, the 'combined weight of occupants and cargo' figure on the driver's door-jamb sticker, alongside your passengers and anything in the cab or bed. A 900-pound tongue weight uses 900 pounds of payload before a single person gets in. Many trucks hit their payload limit well before their tow rating.

What is the difference between tow rating, GVWR, GCWR, and payload?

Tow rating is the maximum trailer weight the vehicle is rated to pull. GVWR is the maximum loaded weight of the tow vehicle itself. Payload is the occupants-and-cargo share of that, from the door-jamb label, and tongue weight counts against it. GCWR is the maximum combined weight of vehicle plus trailer plus everything in both. They are separate ceilings, and the lowest one that applies to your setup is the one that governs; staying under the tow rating does not mean you are under payload or GCWR.

Does a weight-distributing hitch let me tow more?

No. A weight-distributing hitch uses spring bars to spread the trailer's tongue weight more evenly across the tow vehicle's front and rear axles, which restores steering-axle load and improves handling and braking. It does not raise your GVWR, GCWR, payload, or tow rating, and the tongue weight still counts against your payload. It makes a within-limits setup tow better; it does not make an over-limits setup legal or safe.

How do I measure my trailer's tongue weight?

The accurate ways are a dedicated tongue-weight scale, a Weigh Safe or similar scale-in-the-hitch, or a CAT/public scale (weigh the tow vehicle alone, then hitched, and take the difference on the relevant axles). A bathroom-scale-and-lever method exists for light trailers but is easy to get wrong. Because loading the trailer changes it, measure it loaded the way you will actually tow, and re-check if you move heavy gear.

Does this calculator tell me whether my setup is safe to tow?

No. It reports numbers and ranges: your target tongue-weight band, how much payload your load uses, and your margins against the ratings you enter. It does not and cannot tell you your rig is safe to tow. Safety depends on your specific vehicle, trailer, hitch, tires, brakes, loading, and conditions, and on staying under every one of your ratings at once. Weigh your loaded rig at a scale, read your ratings off the door-jamb sticker and owner's manual, and consult your vehicle or trailer manufacturer or a qualified professional.

Disclaimer

This calculator and page are provided for general informational and educational purposes only and give a planning estimate based on published towing rules of thumb as of 2026. They are not a determination that any vehicle and trailer combination is safe to tow, not engineering advice, and not a substitute for weighing your loaded rig and for the ratings and instructions specific to your vehicle, trailer, hitch, and tires. Towing safely requires staying within every applicable limit at the same time, including GVWR, front and rear GAWR, GCWR, the vehicle tow rating, the hitch and receiver rating, the coupler rating, and the tire load ratings; the lowest applicable rating governs and this tool does not check them all. Real weights must be measured on a scale with the rig loaded as you will tow it, and real ratings must be read from the vehicle's door-jamb certification label and the towing section of the owner's manual. We make no warranty, express or implied, as to accuracy, completeness, or fitness for any particular vehicle, trailer, or trip. You alone are responsible for verifying your weights and ratings and for towing safely and legally, and Sorted Gear accepts no liability for any loss, injury, or damage arising from reliance on this information. When in doubt, consult your vehicle or trailer manufacturer or a qualified professional. Last reviewed July 2026.

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